Beautiful Ischia

Slightly less than an hour’s journey by hydrofoil from Naples (Beverello to Casamicciola) the volcanic island of Ischia lies in the Tyrrhenian sea and the northern end of the Gulf of Naples. Ischia and her sister island, Procida comprise the Phlegraean Islands, aptly named as they came into being during the massive Phlegraean eruption.

Casamicciola

Quiet island living, punctuated by brilliant sun and surrounded by deep blue seas and sky. Thermal waters are found throughout the island and you should not miss the opportunity to visit one of the spas, gardens or hotels for the experience. Just before the high-season, in mid-June, Ischia is at a quiet hum- the last of German and Scandinavian tourists are departing before the extreme heat sets in. No crowds and lots of space await.

Lacco Ameno

5 minutes by taxi from the port at Casamicciola, is the small town of Lacco Ameno. Now, one thing to know is if you don’t fancy walking up hills- especially with heavy luggage- you will want to travel by local bus or taxi as the roads wind steeply up and around the town. We booked our stay at a villa situated at the top of one such road, and with a driving blind spot! Still it was worth all the walking/exercise required. The villa was immaculately maintained inside and out surrounded by tropical flowers and lemon trees the fruits of which were nearly the size of grapefruits.

We like to alternate staying in for dinner – and taking full advantage of local produce and fish- and dining out. Dining out is a relaxed, experience where you are never rushed to finish. In season, July through mid-September, expect to pay a premium. Remember, you are on an island and many things must be brought over by boat, adding to the cost. After dinner, be sure to partake in a passeggiata, the daily Italian ritual of walking leisurely with family or friends in the piazza or along the waterfront. Engage in conversation and relax with a refreshing gelato.

Our villa hostess graciously shared home-grown lettuce, apricots, tomatoes and Ischia’s famous Tropea onions. These ingredients would be the foil for a delicious, freshly caught merluzzo, or whiting, dinner. Early next morning, my husband made the short trek to wait for the returning fishermen. Although the catch was light, he was able to bring back a 2.5 kg merluzzo. We feasted on the incredibly sweet, fresh catch accompanied with roasted potatoes, salad and fresh beans.

Thermal spas and parks

Ischia is famous for her abundance of natural thermal pools, thermae. Near Lacco Ameno is the Negombo thermal pool park. Negombo has 10 thermal pools, a beach and freshwater pools. Unless you wish to book traditional spa treatments like a facial or massage, there is no need to reserve in advance. The tropical grounds and thermal pools are very well cared for. The naturally warm waters are varying temperatures and there are also some cold-plunge pools and massage fountains. It is quite a nice experience for the price, although some of the entrance staff can be aloof to abrupt.

If you prefer a hotel-thermal spa experience, Sorriso Thermae resort overlooking Citara bay and less than 2 km from the town of Forio is your place. Easily accessible by bus, you won’t need to worry about transportation in the area. All pools are thermal waters, air-conditioned rooms and meal plans with excellent local food. Traditional spa treatments are also available.

Sant’Angelo

We like Sant’Angelo for its calm water and beach, roughly a 45 minute, scenic bus ride from Lacco Ameno. Be prepared with water, a sun hat, sunglasses and sturdy shoes or sneakers for the down-hill walk to the small town and beach. Ready yourself for the uphill climb back to the bus with something icy cold to drink or a granita, but it’s worth the trip. Sant’Angelo is a lovely town and at the end of the beach is a small shop that is busy all day making delicious, Italian sandwiches served warm and fresh. There are also small bars and restaurants ready to provide food and shops for respite from the beach.

A day spent on the beach, complete with 2 lounge chairs and umbrella can easily run $30 euro per day, off season, $50 or more in-season.

Ischia Porto

Ischia Porto is a 15-20 minute bus-ride from Casamicciola. Time your trip in advance: stores open around 8 and close promptly at 1:30 pm and don’t re-open again until 5 pm. I advise a late day trip: there is very little shade in Ischia Porto and places to sit are limited to outdoor bars or restaurants. If you are looking to purchase Italian-made ceramic tile, dishes etc. this will be your heaven. Every store will pack your purchase for your trip back home. No need to worry about breakage, just weight!