Ireland
Part One
My first visit to Ireland was a wonderful, chaotic bucket list event. Five days and all but one of them we spent criss-crossing east to west. And worth every sharp intake of breath (mine) as we edged a wee bit close to the greenery that hid stumps and stone walls along the sides of each narrow road.
Before I get ahead of myself, let me share that it took months of planning for this incredible journey. At the center of it all was my longing to see the island home of the author of “An Old Woman’s Reflections”, Peig Sayers. This along with viewing marine mammals and sea life up close, in their natural surroundings, the Blasket islands off the Dingle Peninsula. More on this later..
A small, one-bedroom cottage, quay-side in Kinsale was our base. Just a short drive from Cork airport and the highways leading to Killarney and Dingle. Shopping locally for food is simple, there are several local shops within walking distance and a Lidl which has anything else you might need.
Kinsale is a beautiful, clean and welcoming town with a wide choice of restaurants, shops and a few pubs. No one should leave Ireland without having gone to a local pub. To experience the sheer joy and cheer of the evening accompanied by shared rounds of drinks, music, dancing and bellowing laughter, it was impossible not to join in and be carried along. The live music of traditional Irish tunes and one surprising, crowd favorite; Johnny Cash’s ‘Ring of Fire’.
The trip west to County Kerry
The first day, and a full one behind the wheel for my husband, was about 200 miles round trip. We took the road slowly. I say this because there were some hiccups with my navigation planning. Since GPS is spotty, I had printed the route with map and directions prior to leaving New York but forgetting to make sure all of the tabs below were open and the complete directions i.e. ‘turn left at Market’, etc. were visible before printing. This led to several vociferous discussions along the way and a few stops at petrol stations for clarifications..
By the time we reached the Ring of Kerry, we were met with showers, ok, downpours, which of course, shattered my husband’s resolve to make the journey out to the Blaskets. He never wanted to go 3 miles out to sea to an island that is no longer inhabited. Shouting and foot-stomping ensued for several minutes before we continued onward.
Dingle Peninsula
Maybe it was the beauty as we entered the Dingle peninsula and the sheer loveliness of the area itself, but my husband did finally agree, once again, to the boat tour. The weather continued to improve and this being mid-April, is a make or break issue when heading out to the Blaskets. Tip: grab a hot cup of coffee and scone from one of the local shops facing the marina before you leave. Truly scrumptious!
Off we went on the aptly named ‘Peig Sayers’ captained by a then lad of no more than 28, Billy, and his first-mate and lovely sister, Sofie. Twelve people in all aboard. The Lord was smiling; the rain and mizzle abated as we nudged out of the bay.
It was not long before Dingle’s most famous resident put in an appearance – Fungi the Dolphin. Nearing 35 years old at the time of our visit, Fungi comes out to the fishing and tour boats each day. Teasing each boat with an appearance alongside and then, quick as a wink, he’s gone. I’m sad as I write this because I’ve recently read that Fungi is presumed to have died since he has not been seen in many months.
Toward the Blaskets
Besides being an excellent captain, Billy was a knowledgeable guide. As we made our way out to open water, he shared a wealth of information about the geography and history of the Blaskets . It wasn’t long before small groups of dolphins were visible gliding across the waves, followed by minke whales breaching and dipping under the surface.
Suddenly, Sofie called out a basking shark was spotted. Billy cut the engines. My husband was standing starboard side when suddenly, the giant whale surfaced right next the the boat! She slowly opened her mouth- a huge gaping cavern which looked as if it could easily swallow us, boat and all. I remember thinking, ‘I’ll never see inside the mouth of a live shark like this again!” My husband’s face was a mixture of awe, joy and a little fear as he instinctively drew back. He was smiling, shaking his head repeating, “Incredible, incredible!”
The boat was filled with excited chatter from the breathtaking experience. Those few moments of seeing such a magnificent animal, followed by the flash of emotions on my husband’s face told me that everything it took to get us here was worth it. Alas, as soon as the gentle creature appeared and greeted us, she slipped back under the waves and we resumed course toward the Blaskets.
Great Blasket Island
The weather continued to cooperate. It wasn’t long before the Blaskets came into view. The last part of our journey to shore would be from a smaller inflatable. It’s about 50 yards from where the boat anchors and not difficult to manage. I had no difficulty making the switch and I am naturally clumsy. So, if you are not, you should do well- i.e you won’t end up in the drink before you touch land. Really, it is not too difficult.
Once you make your way up the grassy slope to the village remains, the view around you is amazing. Save for some mizzle, the sun did make an occasional appearance. Sheep, donkeys, and rabbits and a few cows all call Great Blasket home. Below the cliffs, you will find grey seals basking on the sandy beach.
Things to Know
No electricity or water supply, but there is a small cafe’, also run by Billy and his family, where you can have a coffee or tea and packaged snacks. Yes, there is a restroom as well. If you bring a lunch, as we did, prepare to carry your trash back with you.
Wear sturdy, waterproof shoes/boots, no sneakers, and dress in layers. I can’t stress enough that a waterproof, wind-breaker/jacket is important as weather conditions can go from sunny, to mizzle to full-on downpour in a few minutes.
The island is now a pristine home for its animal inhabitants; the last human inhabitants left Great Blasket in 1953. I highly recommend learning about the history of Great Blasket including that of Peig Sayers and other Blasket descendants before your trip. It is a wonderful experience that I would absolutely do again.
Part 2:
Cork, Blarney and Killarney
